|LongEZ - N961EZ on the tarmac in Alamogordo, New Mexico|
I FLY EZ
ORIGINAL CONSTRUCTION PHOTOS - WING
LONG EZ WING LANDING LIGHTS
I used 1992 Camaro High Beams in my wing leading edge. These bulbs are about 2 inches tall and about 5 inches wide and draw about 7 amps each. Although the beam pattern is tight, the bulbs radiate a significant amount of light out the bottoms (great for preflights, etc.) Before commiting to using these bulbs, I perfomed several tests as to how much heat was generated. To my surprise, very little heat is put off by these bulbs via convection. HOWEVER, A significant amount of Infrared is radiated out the bottom of the bulb. When I built the box into the leading edge, I made sure to allow this energy to be radiated out the bottom of the lamp box. The lens wraps under the wing in a triangle fashion to allow the radiated energy to go thru the bottom of the lens, and not be absorbed by any of the wing. There are two small holes in the leading edge lens to allow cooling air to flow thru the bulb compartment. The left wing bulb is aimed down to better use for landing. The right wing bulb is aimed straight for taxi. The bulbs put out a considerable amount of energy (both visible and infrared) straight down. Originally. I limited the bulb use to 5 minutes on the ground. However, after monitoring the temperature with thermocouples. The max temperature I've seen was 130 degrees, so I dropped the 5 minute time limit. The leading edge of the wing is structural, and I wanted to make sure I didn't weaken it. When I cut out the light box, I laid in five layers of BID around the inside of the box to allow the leading edge loads to be transfered thru the box. Use caution on how the bulb is able to get rid of its infrared energy. The Camaro bulbs radiate it out the bottom and very little goes out the front. If I were doing this today, I would do it in a similiar fashion, except I would use the high powered projection lamps instead of the Camaro lamps. In my retrofit, I am mounting a PILOT 55 watt projector lamp on the landing gear leg. these would be the lamps I would install in the wing. Waiter
WING TRIM, SWEEP, ANGLE OF ATTACK
WHAT CAN CAUSE DIFFERENCES IN ROLL TRIM? 1) A properly trimmed and rigged LongEZ will normally require a little left trim during flight. i.e. if the planes trim is set at at neutral on the ground, it will do a slow right turn during flight. The torque of the prop does this. Look at any group of EZs parked on the ramp, you'll notice the left aileron is up a little and the right aileron is down. 2) Differences in the wings angle of attack (one higher than the other) OR, sweep angle can also cause this (one wing at a different sweep angle than the other) You can check the wing sweep with a tape measure. Use the measurements that are shown in the POH under the W&B stuff. As for angle of attack. This will require a little more care, but can be done. One quick and easy way to verify the wings are correct in relation to each other: a) Level the plane in pitch and roll. b) You need a 24 inch (or greater) bubble level, a 12 - 18 inch piece of string with a weight on the end (bolt or nut), and a short piece of 2x4 (4 to 6 inches long) c) position the level on the aft part of the wing. Tape the string to one end of the level (draping over the side edge). We'll use the string to line up the aft end of the level with the inboard gap of the aileron. (The wing trailing edge where the aileron cutout starts.) Line up the forward end of the level with the gap between the wing and the strake. d) Slide the 2x4 between the aft end of the level and the trailing edge of the wing. Slide the 2x4 for /aft until the bubble indicates level. Re-verify the string is lined up with the aileron gap, and the forward part of the level is line up with the strake gap. This is important as we'll use these same reference points when setting up to read the other wing. e) Now, measure the vertical distance between the wing trailing edge and the bottom of the level. (our string should hanging down at this position) Recheck everything, pitch, roll, string, strake, etc. Measure the other wing exactly the same. If the two measurements are not the same, the wing with the larger reading has a higher angle of attack. You can do minor changes by add or subtract shims at either the Top or the Bottom outboard bolts, depending whicjh way you need to go. DO NOT let the wing support itself with bolts loose or missing, This places twisting forces on the bolts and hardpoints, These are not designed for these type of loads. Use crates, boxes, anything to support the wing at the winglet, A couple small tires or something so the wing cannot twist. 1) loosten all bolts and slide the wing back 1/8 to 1/4 inch. just enough so you can see the bolt through the gap between the strake and the wing. 2) Get an accurate count as to how many washers (thick or thin) that are currently in place. 3) take the nut off the bolt and push the bolt back carefully, you may need to rock the wing a little to get the bolt to move. If the bolts will slid freely, you can reach in the gap and slide the bolt with the blade. Slide the bolt back just far enouh so you can insert another washer. Use a thin piece of masking tape about 6 inches long. stick the washer to one end of the tape so its just barely on the flat of he washer. Then lower the washer into position on the bolt. Don't pull the tape off until you slide the bolt back into position. When you snug the bolts up, always start with the outboard upper first. do it in a couple steps, i.e. finger tight all the bolts, the go back and snug all the bolts, thn go back and tighten all the bolts. Good Luck Waiter
WING - STRAKE GAP SEAL
After mounting the wing, there is normally a small gap between the wing and the strake. Several builders have used white tape to cover the gap. I used another method: 1) Using masking tape, carefully mask off the wing and the strake so only the gap is exposed. 2) Get the industrial size silicon culk (use a culking gun) fill the gap with silicon. 3) Using a straight edge ( or better yet, an ice cube ) to level off the culk so its even with the wing/strake. 4) Before the culk cures or skins over, carefully pull the masking tape off. 5) Presto, no more gap.
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